Fendi's subversive tailoring between London and Rome


Fendi's subversive tailoring between London and Rome
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London calling for Fendi: creative director Kim Jones combines his idea of the casual elegance of the English subcultures of the 80s with the typically Roman nonchalance to bring his vision of the double F brand to the catwalk with next winter's collection , that is: “the way a woman dresses when she has something substantial to do. And can have fun while doing it.”
Everything, with a muse in mind, the interpreter par excellence of the style of the maison: “I remember that when I met Silvia Venturini Fendi for the first time – says the designer – she was wearing a very chic utilitarian dress – almost a safari dress. This fundamentally shaped the my vision of what Fendi is”.
A vision set in a show framed by a succession of curtains, designing small rooms, with international guests such as the actress Jessica Biel and an unscheduled event at the beginning of the show, when a Peta activist burst onto the catwalk showing her “Wear your skin” and “Turn your back on animal skin” slogans drawn on bare skin and a sign with the slogan “Animals Are Not Clothed.” The young woman was immediately blocked by the show's security, as can be seen in the video of the action against the use of fur by the Roman maison of the LVMH group, posted by Peta. It is a “subversive tailoring” that is the protagonist of the proposal on stage today, born “by looking at 1984 in the Fendi archives. The sketches – says Jones – reminded me of the London of that period: the Blitz Kids, the New Romantics, the adoption of workwear, aristocratic style, Japanese style. It was a time when British subcultures and styles went global and absorbed global influences. Yet, with effortless British elegance and not caring what anyone thinks others, something that fits with the Roman style”, especially in the case of Fendi, which “has a background in utility”. And “The way the Fendi family dresses, it's really with an eye on this kind of style.” So, to open the catwalk, severe and compact coats and shaped jackets. And then the irruption of fake sweaters placed on the shoulders, of pieces of sweaters sewn onto shirts, of zips that run along the back of dresses and skirts, of prints of ancient Roman statues that decorate sheath dresses and light blouses, combined with very high leather boots .

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